Compositions for oxidation dyeing keratin fibers comprising at least one fatty alcohol having more than twenty carbon atoms and at least one oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactant with an HLB greater than 5

• US 20020010970A1
• Filed: 01/02/2001
• Published: 01/31/2002
• Est. Priority Date: 12/30/1999
• Status: Active Grant

• Current Assignee: Christine Rondeau, Francois Cottard
• Original Assignee: L'Oreal SA
• Inventors: Cottard, Francois, Rondeau, Christine
• Granted Patent: US 6,695,887 B2
• Time in Patent Office: Days
• US Class Current: 8/405
• CPC Class Codes: A61K 8/342 Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
• CPC Class Codes: A61K 8/39 Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
• CPC Class Codes: A61Q 5/10 Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair

Abstract

Compositions for oxidation dyeing keratin fibers, such as human keratin fibers like hair, comprising, in a dyeing medium, (1) at least one oxidation dye, (2) at least one fatty alcohol comprising more than twenty carbon atoms, (3) optionally at least one fatty alcohol having at most twenty carbon atoms, (4) at least one oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactant with an HLB greater than 5, and (5) optionally at least one oxyalkylenated surfactant with an HLB at most equal to 5, in a proportion such that the weight ratio [(4)]/[(2)+(3)+(5)] is less than or equal to 1:1. Processes comprising such oxidation dyeing compositions.

Claims

1. A composition for oxidation dyeing keratin fibers comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable dyeing medium:

(1) at least one oxidation dye,

(2) at least one fatty alcohol comprising more than twenty carbon atoms,

(3) optionally comprising at least one fatty alcohol comprising at most twenty carbon atoms,

(4) at least one oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactant with an HLB greater than 5, and

(5) optionally comprising at least one oxyalkylenated surfactant with an HLB at most equal to5, provided that (2), (3), (4), and (5) are present in a proportion such that the weight ratio [(4)]/[(2)+(3)+(5)] is at most equal to 1;

1.

2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein said keratin fibers are chosen from human keratin fibers.

3. A composition according to claim 2, wherein said human keratin fibers are chosen from human hair.

4. A composition according to claim 1, wherein said at least one fatty alcohol comprising more than twenty carbon atoms is chosen from behenyl alcohol and erucyl alcohol.

5. A composition according to claim 1, wherein said at least one fatty alcohol comprising more than twenty carbon atoms is a mixture of fatty alcohols comprising at least 30% by weight of at least one fatty alcohol comprising more than twenty carbon atoms.

6. A composition according to claim 1, wherein said at least one fatty alcohol comprising more than twenty carbon atoms is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. A composition according to claim 6, wherein said at least one fatty alcohol comprising more than twenty carbon atoms is present in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. A composition according to claim 7, wherein said at least one fatty alcohol comprising more than twenty carbon atoms is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. A composition according to claim 1, wherein said at least one fatty alcohol comprising at most twenty carbon atoms is present in an amount ranging up to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. A composition according to claim 1, wherein said at least one oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactant with an HLB of greater than 5 is chosen from:

oxyethylenated alkylphenols comprising more than 2 mol of EO,

EO/PO condensates whose PO/EO ratio in numerical terms is less than 0.71;

1,

oxyethylenated vegetable oils comprising more than 5 mol of EO,

oxyethylenated fatty alcohols comprising more than 2 mol of EO,

esters of fatty acids and of polyethylene glycols, and

polyoxyethylenated esters of fatty acids and of sorbitol.

11. A composition according to claim 1, wherein said at least one oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactant with an HLB greater than 5 is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight relative the total weight of the composition.

12. A composition according to claim 11, wherein said at least one oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactant with an HLB greater than 5 is present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. A composition according to claim 12, wherein said at least one oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactant with an HLB greater than 5 is present in an amount ranging from 1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. A composition according to claim 1, wherein said at least one oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactant with an HLB at most equal to 5 is chosen from:

oxyethylenated alkylphenols comprising at most 2 mol of EO,

EO/PO condensates whose PO/EO ratio is greater than 0.71;

1,

oxyethylenated vegetable oils comprising at most 5 mol of EO, and

oxyethylenated fatty alcohols comprising at most 2 mol of EO.

15. A composition according to claim 1, wherein said at least one oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactant with an HLB at most equal to 5 is present in an amount ranging from greater than 0% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

16. A composition according to claim 15, wherein said at least one oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactant with an HLB at most equal to 5 is present in an amount ranging from greater than 0% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

17. A composition according to claim 1, wherein said at least one oxidation dye is chosen from oxidation bases, oxidation couplers, and their acid addition salts.

18. A composition according to claim 1, wherein said at least one oxidation dye is chosen from oxidation bases.

19. A composition according to claim 18, wherein said oxidation bases are chosen from ortho- and para-phenylenediamines, double bases, ortho- and para-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and acid addition salts of any of the foregoing.

20. A composition according to claim 19, wherein said para-phenylenediamines are chosen from compounds of formula (I):

21. A composition according to claim 20, wherein said R₃ is chlorine.

22. A composition according to claim 19, wherein said double bases are chosen from compounds of formula (II):

23. A composition according to claim 22, wherein said heteroatoms are chosen from oxygen, sulfur, and nitrogen.

24. A composition according to claim 20, wherein said nitrogen-containing groups are chosen from amino, mono(C₁-C₄)alkylamino, (C₁-C₄)dialkylamino, (C₁-C₄)trialkylamino, monohydroxy(C₁-C₄)alkylamino, imidazolinium and ammonium radicals.

25. A composition according to claim 22, wherein said nitrogen-containing groups are chosen from amino, mono(C₁-C₄)alkylamino, (C₁-C₄)dialkylamino, (C₁-C₄)trialkylamino, monohydroxy(C₁-C₄)alkylamino, imidazolinium and ammonium radicals.

26. A composition according to claim 19, wherein said para-aminophenols are chosen from compounds of formula (III):

27. A composition according to claim 26, wherein said halogens are fluorine.

28. A composition according to claim 19, wherein said heterocyclic bases are chosen from pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives, pyrazolopyrimidine derivatives, and pyrazole derivatives.

29. A composition according to claim 18, wherein said oxidation bases are present in an amount ranging from 0.0005% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

30. A composition according to claim 17, wherein said oxidation couplers are chosen from meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, heterocyclic couplers, and their acid addition salts.

31. A composition according to claim 17, wherein said oxidation couplers are present in an amount ranging from 0.0001% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

32. A composition according to claim 17, wherein said acid addition salts are chosen from hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, tartrates, lactates, and acetates.

33. A composition according to claim 1, further comprising at least one direct dye.

34. A composition according to claim 1, further comprising at least one thickening polymer comprising at least one fatty chain.

35. A composition according to claim 34, wherein said at least one thickening polymer comprising at least one fatty chain is chosen from anionic thickening polymers comprising at least one fatty chain, nonionic thickening polymers comprising at least one fatty chain, and cationic thickening polymers comprising at least one fatty chain.

36. A composition according to claim 35, wherein said anionic thickening polymers comprising at least one fatty chain comprises at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one allyl ether unit comprising a fatty chain.

37. A composition according to claim 36, wherein said at least one hydrophilic unit is chosen from ethylenic unsaturated anionic monomeric residues.

38. A composition according to claim 37, wherein said ethylenic unsaturated anionic monomeric residues are chosen from residues of vinylcarboxylic acid.

39. A composition according to claim 36, wherein said at least one allyl ether unit comprising at least one fatty chain is chosen from monomeric residues formed from monomers of formula (I):

CH₂═

C—

R′

—

CH₂—

O—

B_n—

R 

 

(1)

in which R′

is chosen from H and CH₃, B is an ethyleneoxy group, n is chosen from zero and integers ranging from 1 to 100, R is a hydrocarbon group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl and cycloalkyl groups.

40. A composition according to claim 39, wherein said hydrocarbon group comprises from 10 to 24 carbon atoms.

41. A composition according to claim 40, wherein said hydrocarbon group comprises from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

42. A composition according to claim 35, wherein said anionic thickening polymers comprising at least one fatty chain comprise at least one hydrophilic unit of the olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type and at least one hydrophobic unit of the (C₁₀-C₃₀)alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid type.

43. A composition according to claim 42, wherein said at least one hydrophilic unit of the olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type is chosen from monomeric residues formed from monomers of formula (II):

44. A composition according to claim 43, wherein said R₃ is chosen from C₁₂-C22 alkyl groups.

45. A composition according to claim 35, wherein said anionic thickening polymers comprising at least one fatty chain are chosen from terpolymers of maleic anhydride/C₃₀-C₃₈ α

-olefin/alkyl maleate.

46. A composition according to claim 35, wherein said anionic thickening polymers comprising at least one fatty chain are chosen from acrylic terpolymers comprising:

(a) a carboxylic acid with α

, β

-monoethylenic unsaturation

(b) a nonsurfactant monomer with α

,β

-monoethylenic unsaturation different from (a); and

(c) a nonionic monourethane which is the product of the reaction of a monohydric surfactant with a monoisocyanate with monoethylenic unsaturation.

47. A composition according to claim 35, wherein said anionic thickening polymers comprising at least one fatty chain are chosen from copolymers formed from at least two monomers, wherein at least one of said at least two monomers is chosen from a carboxylic acid with α

,β

-monoethylenic unsaturation, an ester of a carboxylic acid with α

, β

-monoethylenic unsaturation, and an oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol.

48. A composition according to claim 35, wherein said nonionic thickening polymer comprising at least one fatty chain is chosen from:

(1) celluloses modified by at least one group comprising at least one fatty chain;

(2) hydroxypropylguars modified by at least one group comprising at least one fatty chain;

(3) copolymers formed from vinylpyrrolidone and at least one hydrophobic monomer comprising at least one fatty chain;

(4) copolymers formed from at least one C₁-C₆ alkyl methacrylate and at least one amphiphilic monomer comprising at least one fatty chain and copolymers formed from at least one C₁-C₆ alkyl acrylate and at least one amphiphilic monomer comprising at least one fatty chain;

(5) copolymers formed from at least one hydrophilic methacrylate and at least one hydrophobic monomer comprising at least one fatty chain and copolymers formed from at least one hydrophilic acrylate and at least one hydrophobic monomer comprising at least one fatty chain;

(6) polyether-polyurethanes comprising in their chain both hydrophilic sequences and hydrophobic sequences; and

(7) polymers comprising an aminoplast ether backbone possessing at least one fatty chain.

49. A composition according to claim 35, wherein said nonionic thickening polymers are chosen from polyether-polyurethanes comprising at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon chains, comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic sequence, wherein said hydrocarbon chains are chosen from pendant chains and chains at the end of a hydrophilic sequence.

50. A composition according to claim 48, wherein said nonionic thickening polymers are chosen from polyether-polyurethanes comprising a polyblock sequence.

51. A composition according to claim 50, wherein said polyether-polyurethanes are in tri-block form.

52. A composition according to claim 35, wherein said cationic thickening polymers comprising at least one fatty chain are chosen from quaternized cellulose derivatives and polyacrylates comprising noncyclic amine-containing side groups.

53. A composition according to claim 34, wherein said at least one thickening polymer comprising at least one fatty chain is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

54. A composition according to claim 53, wherein said at least one thickening polymer comprising at least one fatty chain is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

55. A composition according to claim 1, further comprising at least one reducing agent.

56. A composition according to claim 55, wherein said at least one reducing agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

62. A composition according to claim 1, wherein said composition possesses a pH ranging from 4 to 12.

64. A composition according to claim 56, wherein said human keratin fibers are chosen from human hair.

81. A composition according to claim 1, wherein said at least one fatty alcohol comprising at most twenty carbon atoms is chosen from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated fatty alcohols comprising at most twenty carbon atoms.

82. A composition according to claim 35, wherein said anionic thickening polymers are chosen from copolymers formed from at least three monomers, wherein at least one of said at least three monomers is chosen from a carboxylic acid with α

, β

-monoethylenic unsaturation, at least one of said at least three monomers is chosen from an ester of a carboxylic acid with α

, β

-monoethylenic unsaturation, and at least one of said at least three monomers is chosen from an oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol.

57. A ready-to-use cosmetic composition for oxidation dyeing keratin fibers, wherein said ready-to-use cosmetic composition is obtained by including at least one composition (A) in a dyeing medium, comprising:

(1) at least one oxidation dye,

(2) at least one fatty alcohol comprising more than twenty carbon atoms,

(3) optionally comprising at least one fatty alcohol comprising at most twenty carbon atoms,

(4) at least one oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactant with an HLB greater than 5, and

(5) optionally comprising at least one oxyalkylenated surfactant with an HLB at most equal to 5, provided that (2), (3), (4), and (5) are present in a proportion such that the weight ratio [(4)]/[(2)+(3)+(5)] is at most equal to 1;

1, with at least one composition (B) comprising at least one oxidizing agent.

58. A composition according to claim 57, wherein said at least one oxidizing agent is chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, alkali metal ferricyanides, persalts, and oxidation-reduction enzymes.

59. A composition according to claim 58, wherein said oxidation-reduction enzymes are chosen from laccases, peroxidases, and oxidoreductases comprising 2 electrons.

60. A composition according to claim 58, wherein said at least one oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide.

61. A composition according to claim 60, wherein said hydrogen peroxide is present in an oxygenated water solution comprising a titre ranging from 1 to 40 in volume.

63. A composition according to claim 57, wherein said keratin fibers are chosen from human keratin fibers.

65. A composition according to claim 57, further comprising at least one polymer chosen from cationic polymers and amphoteric polymers, wherein said at least one polymer is present in said at least one composition (A), in said at least one composition (B), or in said at least one composition (A) and said at least one composition (B).

66. A composition according to claim 65, wherein said at least one polymer is chosen from cationic polymers chosen from quaternary polyammoniums comprising recurring units of formula (W):

67. A composition according to claim 65, wherein said at least one polymer is chosen from cationic polymers chosen from quaternary polyammoniums comprising recurring units of formula (U):

68. A composition according to claim 65, wherein said at least one polymer is chosen from amphoteric polymers chosen from copolymers comprising at least one monomeric residue chosen from acrylic acid residue and a residue of a salt of dimethyldiallylammonium.

69. A composition according to claim 65, wherein said at least one polymer chosen from cationic polymers and amphoteric polymers is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

70. A composition according to claim 69, wherein said at least one polymer chosen from cationic polymers and amphoteric polymers is present in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

71. A composition according to claim 70, wherein said at least one polymer chosen from cationic polymers and amphoteric polymers is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

72. A composition according to claim 57 further comprising at least one additional surfactant chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric surfactants, wherein said at least one additional surfactant is present in said at least one composition (A), in said at least one composition (B), or in said at least one composition (A) and said at least one composition (B).

73. A composition according to claim 72, characterized in that said at least one additional surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

74. A composition according to claim 73, wherein said at least one additional surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

75. A composition according to claim 57 further comprising at least one thickening agent chosen from cellulose derivatives, guar derivatives, gums of microbial origin, and synthetic thickeners which do not possess a fatty chain, wherein said at least one thickening agent is present in said at least one composition (A), in said at least one composition (B), or in said at least one composition (A) and said at least one composition (B).

76. A composition according to claim 75, wherein said at least one thickening agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

77. A method for oxidation dyeing keratin fibers comprising:

(a) applying to said keratin fibers at least one composition (A) comprising, in a dyeing medium;

(1) at least one oxidation dye,

(2) at least one fatty alcohol comprising more than twenty carbon atoms,

(3) optionally comprising at least one fatty alcohol comprising at most twenty carbon atoms,

(4) at least one oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactant with an HLB greater than 5, and

(5) optionally comprising at least one oxyalkylenated surfactant with an HLB at most equal to 5, provided that (2), (3), (4), and (5) are present in a proportion such that the weight ratio [(4)]/[(2)+(3)+(5)] is at most equal to 1;

1, (b) developing a color with the aid of at least one oxidizing composition (B) comprising at least one oxidizing agent, wherein said at least one oxidizing composition (B) is combined at the time of use with said at least one composition (A) or said at least one oxidizing composition (B) is applied sequentially to said at least one composition (A) without intermediate rinsing.

78. A method according to claim 77, wherein said keratin fibers are chosen from human keratin fibers.

79. A method according to claim 78, wherein said human keratin fibers are human hair.

80. A multicompartment device or kit for dyeing of keratinous fibers comprising at least two compartments wherein:

a first compartment comprises (1) at least one oxidation dye, (2) at least one fatty alcohol comprising more than twenty carbon atoms, (3) optionally comprising at least one fatty alcohol comprising at most twenty carbon atoms, (4) at least one oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactant with an HLB greater than 5, and (5) optionally comprising at least one oxyalkylenated surfactant with an HLB at most equal to 5, provided that (2), (3), (4), and (5) are present in a proportion such that the weight ratio [(4)]/[(2)+(3)+(5)] is at most equal to 1;

1, and

a second compartment comprises at least one oxidizing agent.