Treatment and composition for achieving skin anti-aging benefits by corneum protease activation

• US 20030095940A1
• Filed: 12/12/2002
• Published: 05/22/2003
• Est. Priority Date: 07/20/1999
• Status: Active Grant

• Current Assignee: Allustra Technologies, LLC
• Original Assignee: Mary Kay Incorporated (Mary Kay Holding Corporation)
• Inventors: Schiltz, John R.
• Granted Patent: US 7,175,837 B2
• Time in Patent Office: Days
• US Class Current: 424/70.22
• CPC Class Codes: A61K 2800/30 Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
• CPC Class Codes: A61K 2800/51 Chelating agents
• CPC Class Codes: A61K 2800/59 Mixtures
• CPC Class Codes: A61K 8/042 Gels
• CPC Class Codes: A61K 8/062 Oil-in-water emulsions
• CPC Class Codes: A61K 8/345 containing more than one hydroxy group
• CPC Class Codes: A61K 8/40 containing nitrogen quinones containing nitrogen A61K8/355
• CPC Class Codes: A61K 8/44 Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
• CPC Class Codes: A61K 8/463 containing sulfuric acid derivatives, e.g. sodium lauryl sulfate
• CPC Class Codes: A61K 8/55 Phosphorus compounds
• CPC Class Codes: A61K 8/676 Ascorbic acid, i.e. vitamin C
• CPC Class Codes: A61K 8/735 Mucopolysaccharides, e.g. hyaluronic acid; Derivatives thereof
• CPC Class Codes: A61K 8/8147 Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
• CPC Class Codes: A61K 8/922 of vegetable origin
• CPC Class Codes: A61K 8/9706 Algae
• CPC Class Codes: A61K 8/9789 Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
• CPC Class Codes: A61P 17/00 Drugs for dermatological disorders
• CPC Class Codes: A61Q 19/007 Preparations for dry skin
• CPC Class Codes: A61Q 19/02 for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
• CPC Class Codes: A61Q 19/08 Anti-ageing preparations

Abstract

Novel methods and compositions for treating aged and environmentally damaged skin are disclosed which provide improvements in the skin'"'"'s visual appearance, function and clinical/biophysical properties by activating at least one proteolytic enzyme in the skin'"'"'s stratum corneum. The disclosed treatment methods involve topical application of a novel cosmetic composition containing a combination of a cationic surfactant such as N,N,-dimethyldodecyl amine oxide (DMDAO), an anionic surfactant such as sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS), or monoalkyl phosphate (MAP) and a chelating agent such as ethylene diamine tetraacetate (EDTA) to stimulate a chronic increase in the replacement rate of the skin'"'"'s stratum corneum by means of corneum protease activation. This chronic, low level stimulation is effective to induce repair and replacement of the stratum corneum, epidermis, and dermis of the skin and improvements in the appearance, function, and anti-aging properties of the skin.

Claims

1. A method of treating skin comprising topical application to aged or damaged skin of a cosmetic composition comprising a chemically compatible combination of one or more surfactants and at least one chelating agent, in an amount effective to provide chronic stimulation of said skin'"'"'s stratum corneum turnover rate, and a reduction in said stratum corneum turnover time, by activating one or more of said skin'"'"'s endogenous corneum protease enzymes.

2. The method according to claim 1 wherein said chemically compatible combination comprises a cationic surfactant, an anionic surfactant, and a chelating agent.

3. The method according to claim 1 wherein said treatment is effective to decrease stratum corneum turnover time.

4. The method according to claim 3 wherein said treatment is effective to decrease stratum corneum turnover time by from about 1% to about 40%.

5. The method according to claim 3 wherein said treatment is effective to decrease stratum corneum turnover time by at least about 25%.

6. The method according to claim 1 wherein said treatment is effective to reduce TEWL.

7. The method according to claim 6 wherein said treatment is effective to reduce TEWL by from about 0% to about 100%.

8. The method according to claim 6 wherein said treatment is effective to reduce TEWL by at least about 1%.

9. The method according to claim 1 wherein said treatment is effective to decrease canthus skin roughness.

10. The method according to claim 9 wherein said treatment is effective to decrease canthus skin roughness by from about 1% to about 60%.

11. The method according to claim 9 wherein said treatment is effective to decrease canthus skin roughness by at least about 9%.

12. The method according to claim 1 wherein said treatment is effective to decrease number of wrinkles on the canthus.

15. The method according to claim 1 wherein said treatment is effective to increase skin moisture on the canthus.

16. The method according to claim 15 wherein said treatment is effective to increase skin moisture on the canthus by from about 1% to about 90%.

17. The method according to claim 15 wherein said treatment is effective to increase skin moisture on the canthus by at least about 21%.

18. The method according to claim 1 wherein said treatment is effective to increase skin moisture on the cheek.

19. The method according to claim 18 wherein said treatment is effective to increase skin moisture on the cheek by from about 1% to about 90%.

20. The method according to claim 18 wherein said treatment is effective to increase skin moisture on the cheek by at least about 14%.

21. The method according to claim 1 wherein said cosmetic composition is applied at least once per day.

22. The method according to claim 21 wherein said cosmetic composition is applied twice per day.

23. The method according to claim 1 wherein said cosmetic composition comprises a chemically compatible combination of the following, in proportions based on the total weight of said cosmetic composition:

a) from about 0.01% to about 5.0% of a cationic surfactant;

b) from about 0.01% to about 5.0% of an anionic surfactant; and

c) from about 0.01% to about 5.0% of a chelating agent.

24. The method according to claim 23 wherein said cosmetic composition comprises a chemically compatible combination of the following, in proportions based on the weight of the composition:

a) from about 0.18% to about 0.36% of a cationic surfactant;

b) from about 0.06% to about 0.12% of an anionic surfactant; and

c) from about 0.15% to about 0.30% of a chelating agent.

25. The method according to claim 24 wherein said cationic surfactant is DMDAO.

26. The method according to claim 24 wherein said anionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of SDS and MAP.

27. The method according to claim 24 wherein said chelating agent is EDTA.

13. The method according to claim 13 wherein said treatment is effective to decrease number of wrinkles on the canthus by from about 1% to about 60%.

14. The method according to claim 13 wherein said treatment is effective to decrease number of wrinkles on the canthus by at least about 9%.

28. A cosmetic treatment composition for aged or damaged skin comprising a chemically compatible combination of one or more surfactants and at least one chelating agent, in an amount effective to provide chronic stimulation of said skin'"'"'s stratum corneum turnover rate, and a reduction in said stratum corneum turnover time, by activating one or more of said skin'"'"'s endogenous corneum protease enzymes.

29. The cosmetic treatment composition of claim 28 wherein said chemically compatible combination comprises a cationic surfactant, an anionic surfactant, and a chelating agent.

30. The cosmetic treatment composition of claim 29 wherein said cationic surfactant is selected from amine oxides, long-chain primary amines, diamines, polyamines, polyamine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, polyoxyethylenated long-chain amines, and quaternized polyoxyethylenated long-chain amines.

31. The cosmetic treatment composition of claim 30 wherein said cationic surfactant is DMDAO.

32. The cosmetic treatment composition of claim 29 wherein said anionic surfactant is selected from SDS, salts of carboxylic acids (i.e. soaps), salts of sulfonic acids, salts of sulfuric acid, phosphoric and polyphosphoric acid esters, monoalkyl phosphate (MAP), and salts of perfluorocarboxylic acids.

33. The cosmetic treatment composition of claim 32 wherein said anionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of SDS or MAP.

34. The cosmetic treatment composition of claim 29 wherein said chelating agent is selected from EDTA, disodium EDTA, EGTA, citric acid, and dicarboxylic acids.

35. The cosmetic treatment composition of claim 29 wherein said chelating agent is EDTA.

36. The cosmetic treatment composition of claim 28 wherein said cosmetic composition has a pH in the range of from about 2.5 to about 10.0.

37. The cosmetic treatment composition of claim 36 wherein said cosmetic composition has a pH of about 8.

38. The cosmetic treatment composition of claim 28 wherein said cosmetic composition is applied at least once per day.

39. The cosmetic treatment composition of claim 38 wherein said cosmetic composition is applied at least twice per day.

40. The cosmetic treatment composition of claim 28, wherein said cosmetic composition comprises a chemically compatible combination of the following, in proportions based on the weight of the composition:

a) from about 0.01 to about 5.0% of a catonic surfactant;

b) from about 0.01 to about 5.0% of a anionic surfactant; and

c) from about 0.01 to about 5.0% of a chelating agent.

41. The cosmetic treatment composition of claim 40, wherein said cosmetic composition comprises a chemically compatible combination of the following, in proportions based on the weight of the composition:

a) from about 0.18% to about 0.36% of a cationic surfactant;

b) from about 0.06% to about 0.12% of an anionic surfactant; and

c) from about 0.15% to about 0.30% of a chelating agent.