Composition for bleaching or permanent waving of keratinous fibers comprising a cationic associative polyurethane

• US 20040034946A1
• Filed: 05/07/2003
• Published: 02/26/2004
• Est. Priority Date: 11/08/2000
• Status: Active Grant

• Current Assignee: L'Oreal SA
• Original Assignee: L'Oreal SA
• Inventors: De La Mettrie, Roland, Legrand, Frederic
• Granted Patent: US 7,077,869 B2
• Time in Patent Office: Days
• US Class Current: 8/405
• CPC Class Codes: A61K 8/87 Polyurethanes
• CPC Class Codes: A61Q 5/04 Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair
• CPC Class Codes: A61Q 5/08 Preparations for bleaching the hair

Abstract

The invention concerns a composition for bleaching or permanent waving of keratinous fibres, in particular human keratinous fibres and more particularly hair, comprising, in a medium suitable for bleaching or permanent waving, at least a reducing agent and furthermore at least a cationic associative polyurethane. The invention also concerns methods and devices for bleaching or permanent waving of keratinous fibres using said composition.

Claims

1. A ready-to-use composition for bleaching or reshaping keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers and more particularly the hair, comprising, in a medium that is suitable for bleaching, at least one reducing agent, characterized in that it also comprises at least one cationic associative polyurethane.

2. The composition as claimed in claim 1, characterized in that the cationic associative polyurethane is of formula (Ia) below:

R—

X—

(P)_n—

[L—

(Y)_m]_r—

L′

—

(P′

)_p—

X′

—

R′

 

 

(Ia)

in which;

R and R′

, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrophobic group or a hydrogen atom;

X and X′

, which may be identical or different, represent a group comprising an amine function optionally bearing a hydrophobic group, or alternatively a group L″

;

L, L′ and

L″

, which may be identical or different, represent a group derived from a diisocyanate;

P and P′

, which may be identical or different, represent a group comprising an amine function optionally bearing a hydrophobic group;

Y represents a hydrophilic group;

r is an integer between 1 and 100, preferably between 1 and 50 and in particular between 1 and 25,

n, m and p each range, independently of each other, from 0 to 1000;

the molecule containing at least one protonated or quaternized amine function and at least one hydrophobic group.

3. The composition as claimed in claim 2, characterized in that R and R′

both independently represent a hydrophobic group, X and X′

each represent a group L″

, n and p are between 1 and 1000, and L, L′

, L″

, P, P′

, Y and m have the meaning given in claim 2.

4. The composition as claimed in claim 2, characterized in that R and R′

both independently represent a hydrophobic group, X and X′

both independently represent a group comprising a quaternary amine, n and p are zero, and L, L′

, Y and m have the meaning given in claim 2.

5. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 2 to 4, characterized in that R and R′

represent a radical or polymer containing a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, in which one or more of the carbon atoms may be replaced with a hetero atom chosen from S, N, O and P, or a radical or polymer containing a perfluoro or silicone chain.

6. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 2 to 5, characterized in that X and X′

represent one of the formulae;

7. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 2 to 6, characterized in that the groups L, L′

and L″

, which may be identical or different, represent the formula;

8. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 2 to 7, characterized in that the groups P and P′

, which may be identical or different, represent at least one of the following formulae;

9. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 2 to 8, characterized in that Y represents a group derived from ethylene glycol, from diethylene glycol or from propylene glycol, or a group derived from a polymer chosen from polyethers, sulfonated polyesters and sulfonated polyamides.

10. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic associative polyurethanes have a number-average molecular mass of between 400 and 500 000, preferably between 1000 and 400 000 and in particular between 1000 and 300 000.

11. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic associative polyurethanes are used in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. The composition as claimed in claim 11, characterized in that the cationic associative polyurethanes are used in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the reducing agent(s) is (are) chosen from thiols such as cysteine, thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, salts thereof and esters thereof, cysteamine and its salts, and sulfites.

14. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that the reducing agent(s) is (are) chosen from ascorbic acid, salts thereof and esters thereof, and erythorbic acid, salts thereof and esters thereof.

15. The composition as claimed in either of claims 13 and 14, characterized in that the concentration of reducing agent may range from 0.1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

16. The composition as claimed in claim 15, characterized in that it can range from 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

17. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises at least one amphoteric or cationic polymer other than the cationic associative polyurethanes as described in any one of claims 2 to 12.

18. The composition as claimed in claim 17, characterized in that the cationic polymer is a polyquaternary ammonium polymer consisting of repeating units corresponding to formula (W) below:

19. The composition as claimed in claim 17, characterized in that the cationic polymer is a polyquaternary ammonium polymer consisting of repeating units corresponding to formula (U) below:

20. The composition as claimed in claim 17, characterized in that the amphoteric polymer is a copolymer comprising at least, as monomers, acrylic acid and a dimethyldiallylammonium salt.

21. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 17 to 20, characterized in that the cationic or amphoteric polymer(s) represent(s) from 0.01% to 10%, preferably from 0.05% to 5% and even more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

22. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one surfactant chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric surfactants.

23. The composition as claimed in claim 22, characterized in that the surfactants represent from 0.01% to 40% and preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

24. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one additional thickener.

25. The composition as claimed in claim 24, characterized in that the additional thickener is a cellulose derivative, a guar derivative, a gum of microbial origin or a synthetic thickener.

26. The composition as claimed in claims 24-25, characterized in that the additional thickener(s) represent(s) from 0.05% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

27. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises at least one basifying or acidifying agent in amounts ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

28. The composition as claimed in claim 27, characterized in that the basifying agent is chosen from aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates, alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, and derivatives thereof, oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated hydroxyalkylamines and ethylenediamines, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and the compounds of formula (XIX) below:

29. The composition as claimed in claim 27, characterized in that the acidifying agent is chosen from mineral or organic acids, for instance hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, carboxylic acids, for instance tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.

30. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 29, characterized in that it is obtained by extemporaneous mixing at the time of use of an anhydrous composition comprising at least one reducing agent and at least one aqueous composition, at least one of the anhydrous or aqueous compositions comprising at least one cationic associative polyurethane.

31. An anhydrous composition for bleaching or reshaping keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers and more particularly the hair, comprising at least one reducing agent, characterized in that it also comprises at least one cationic associative polyurethane as defined in any one of claims 2-12.

32. The composition as claimed in claim 30 or 31, characterized in that the anhydrous composition is in pulverulent form.

33. The composition as claimed in claim 30, 31 or 32, characterized in that the anhydrous composition comprises at least one additive chosen from mineral or organic fillers such as silica or clays, binders such as vinylpyrrolidone, oils or waxes, polyalkylene glycols or polyalkylene glycol derivatives, lubricants, for instance polyol stearates or alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal stearates, and colorants or matting agents, for instance titanium oxides.

34. The composition as claimed in claim 33, characterized in that each of the additives is present at a concentration ranging from 0 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

35. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 29, characterized in that it is aqueous.

36. The composition as claimed in claim 35, characterized in that the aqueous medium contains one or more organic solvents.

37. The composition as claimed in claim 36, characterized in that the concentration of solvent(s) ranges from 0.5% to 20% and preferably from 2% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

38. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1-30 and 32-37, characterized in that the composition has a pH ranging from 1.5 to 12.

39. The bleaching composition as claimed in any one of claims 1-30 and 32-38, characterized in that the pH is between 1.5 and 10 and preferably between 1.5 and 7.

40. The permanent-reshaping composition as claimed in any one of claims 1-30 and 32-38, characterized in that the pH is between 6 and 12 and preferably between 7 and 11.

41. The composition as claimed in claim 30, characterized in that the cationic associative polyurethane polymer is in an aqueous composition.

42. A process for bleaching or permanently reshaping keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers and more particularly the hair, which consists in applying to the wet or dry fibers a ready-to-use composition comprising, in a medium that is suitable for bleaching, at least one reducing agent and at least one cationic associative polyurethane as defined in any one of claims 2 to 12, and in leaving the composition to act for an action time ranging from 1 to 60 minutes and preferably from 10 to 45 minutes, optionally rinsing the fibers, washing them with shampoo, followed by rinsing them again and drying them, the application of said composition possibly being followed, in the case of permanent reshaping, by the application, optionally after rinsing, of an oxidizing composition that is left to act for an action time of between 1 and 20 minutes and preferably between 1 and 10 minutes, optionally followed by washing with shampoo, rinsing again and drying.

43. A two-compartment device or “

kit”

for bleaching or permanently reshaping human keratin fibers, and more particularly the hair, characterized in that the first compartment comprises at least one powder or one aqueous composition, and the second compartment comprises an aqueous composition, at least one of the two compartments comprising at least one reducing agent and at least one of the two compartments comprising at least one cationic associative polyurethane as defined in any one of claims 2-12.