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Method of generating a pattern of a flat seam garment

  • US 4,532,655 A
  • Filed: 12/27/1983
  • Issued: 08/06/1985
  • Est. Priority Date: 06/01/1983
  • Status: Expired due to Fees
First Claim
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1. Method for converting a pattern for a first garment to a pattern for a second garment, whereinsaid first garment includes front and back body and shoulder portions with a shoulder hole between those front and back portions, and a separate, generally tubular sleeve portion having a sleeve seam extending along its length, one end of said sleeve portion being joined to the perimeter of said shoulder hole along a sleeve-to-shoulder seam whereby the regions of said sleeve portion adjacent to said sleeve-to-shoulder seam are non-parallel with respect to regions of said body and shoulder portions adjacent to said sleeve-to-shoulder seam when said body and shoulder portions are positioned in a plane, wherein,said first garment pattern includes at least one first planar pattern corresponding to said front and back body and shoulder portions positioned in a plane and a second planar pattern corresponding to said sleeve portion positioned in a plane without its sleeve seam being joined, and whereinsaid second garment includes body portions including front and back body portions with a shoulder hole between those front and back body portons, and a separate, generally tubular sleeve and shoulder portion having a sleeve and shoulder seam extending along its length, one end of said sleeve and shoulder portion being joined to the perimeter of said shoulder hole along a shoulder-to-body seam, and wherein the regions of said body portions adjacent to said shoulder-to-body seam are substantially parallel to the regions of said shoulder and sleeve portion adjacent to said shoulder-to-body seam when said regions of said body portion adjacent to said sleeve-to-shoulder seam is positioned in a plane without the sleeve and shoulder seam being joined, and wherein the regions of the said body portions adjacent to said sleeve-to-shoulder seam are non-parallel with respect to the regions of said shoulder and sleeve portion adjacent to said sleeve-to-shoulder seam when said regions of said body portions adjacent to the said sleeve-to-shoulder seam are positioned in a plane with said sleeve and shoulder seam being joined, whereinsaid second garment pattern includes at least one third planar pattern corresponding to said front and back body portions positioned in a plane and a fourth planar pattern corresponding to said sleeve and shoulder portion positioned in a plane without its sleeve and shoulder seam joined, wherein the outer contour of said first garment is substantially the same as the outer contour of said second garment, comprising the steps of:

  • A. generating a fifth planar pattern from said second planar patter, said fifth planar pattern corresponding to said sleeve portion wherein the sleeve seam of said sleeve portion is adapted to extend from the uppermost point of said shoulder hole, said fifth planar pattern including an end portion having a perimeter corresponding to the perimeter of said sleeve hole,B. overlaying said fifth planar pattern on said first planar pattern with the center point of said perimeter of said end portion of said fifth planar pattern being positioned for its joinder to the lowermost point of said perimeter of said shoulder hole portion of said first planar pattern, said first and fifth patterns lying in substantially parallel planes,C. identifying a reference line in the plane of said first planar pattern, said reference line being defined by the mid-points of line segments connecting pairs of associated points on said perimeter of said end portion of said fifth pattern of pattern and said perimeter of said shoulder hole of said first pattern, the distances from the points in each pair of associated points from a respective one of said lowermost and center points being a relatively fixed ratio, said distances being measured along the contours defined by said perimeter of said shoulder hole of said first pattern and said perimeter of said end portion of said fifth pattern, respectively,D. generating said third planar pattern having areas corresponding to said first patterns less the area between said reference line and said perimeter of said shoulder hole of said first planar pattern,E. generating said fourth planar pattern having an area corresponding to said fifth planar pattern plus the area between said reference line and said perimeter of said end portion of said fifth planar pattern.

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