Pucker free garment seam and method of manufacture

• US 5,590,615 A
• Filed: 03/11/1996
• Issued: 01/07/1997
• Est. Priority Date: 05/17/1994
• Status: Expired due to Term

• Current Assignee: Taltech Limited
• Original Assignee: TAL Apparel Limited
• Inventors: Wong, John
• Primary Examiner(s): Izaguirre, Ismael
• Application Number:
  US08/613,656
• Time in Patent Office: 302 Days
• Field of Search: 112/403, 112/417, 112/418, 112/402, 112/441, 112/440, 112/475.09, 2/125, 2/275, 2/243 R, 2/272, 2/DIG. 5, 156/91, 156/92, 156/93, 156/275.5, 428/102, 428/375, 428/418, 428/172, 428/186, 428/354, 223/2, 223/4
• US Class Current: 112/441
• CPC Class Codes: A41D 27/10 Sleeves; Armholes
• CPC Class Codes: A41D 27/20 Pockets; Making or setting-in pockets
• CPC Class Codes: A41D 27/24 Hems; Seams

Abstract

A pucker free garment seam providing a garment with a tailored and wrinkle free appearance. The pucker free seam and method of manufacture utilizes a bonding element which contains at least a thermal adhesive component which is inserted between first and second garment components along the seam. A sufficient amount of heat and pressure is applied to the seam which causes the adhesive of the bonding element to flow onto the surfaces of the garment components thereby creating a compressed seam and permanently bonding the first and second garment components together along the seam to eliminate puckering associated with shrinkage of the sewing thread.

Claims

1. A method of manufacturing a pucker free garment seam between first and second garment components comprising the steps:

(a) providing a first garment component having an upper surface and a lower surface;

(b) providing a second garment component in a juxtaposed relationship with respect to the first garment component to be joined at a seam to the first garment component;

(c) providing a bonding element having an upper and lower surface and at least a thermal adhesive component and placing the bonding element along the seam formed by the positioning of the first garment component and the second garment component such that the lower surface of the bonding element contacts at the seam the upper surface of the first garment component;

(d) sewing a first set stitch along a side of the seam such that the first stitch traverses through the bonding element, the first garment component, and the second garment component; and

(e) folding the first garment component over the bonding element such that the upper surface of the first garment component is folded over and abuts an upper surface of the bonding element along the seam, the folded over portion of the first garment component is positioned such that it covers portions of the first stitch that protrude through the bonding element along its upper surface;

(f) sewing a second stitch running along a side of the seam opposite the first stitch such that the second stitch traverses through at least the folded over portion of the first garment component and the second garment component; and

(g) applying sufficient heat and pressure to the bonding element to cause the thermal adhesive to melt such that the adhesive flows onto the surfaces of at least the upper surface of the first garment component to provide a bond along the seam such that the bonded components will effectively reduce a tendency of the seam to pucker during laundering.

2. A method of manufacturing a smooth seam as defined in claim 1 wherein said bonding element is a thermal adhesive web composed entirely of a thermal adhesive.

3. A method of manufacturing a smooth seam as defined in claim 2 wherein said thermal adhesive web is composed of a plurality of adhesive filaments having a diameter ranging approximately between 20 to 80 microns.

4. A method of manufacturing a smooth seam as defined in claim 2 wherein said thermal adhesive web has a density of approximately 10 to 100 grams per square meter.

5. A method of manufacturing a smooth seam as defined in claim 1 wherein said bonding element comprises an interlining having on upper and lower surfaces a quantity of adhesive.

6. A method of manufacturing a smooth seam as defined in claim 5 wherein said interlining is a woven interlining fabricated from cotton.

7. A method of manufacturing a smooth seam as defined in claim 5 wherein said interlining is a woven interlining fabricated from polyester/cotton blend.

8. A method of manufacturing a smooth seam as defined in claim 5 wherein said interlining is a nonwoven interlining fabricated from a material selected from the group consisting of polyester, nylon, and viscose and blends thereof.

9. A method of manufacturing a smooth seam as defined in claim 1 wherein said adhesive is composed of a thermoplastic material.

10. A method of manufacturing a smooth seam as defined in claim 9 herein said adhesive is composed of a thermoplastic material selected from the group consisting of polyamide, polyester, olefinic, polyurethane, and ethylene vinylacetate copolymer materials.

11. A method of manufacturing a smooth seam as defined in claim 1 wherein said thermal adhesive has a melting point ranging from approximately 60 to 160 degrees celsius.

12. A method of manufacturing a smooth seam as defined in claim 1 wherein said bonding element is a thermal adhesive net having a density of approximately 8 to 80 grams per square meter.

13. A method of manufacturing a smooth seam as defined in claim 1 wherein said first garment component comprises a front panel, yoke, and rear panel of a dress shirt and said second garment component comprises a shirt sleeve such that said seam is the seam of a shirt armhole.

14. A method of manufacturing a smooth seam as defined in claim 1 wherein said seam is the seam of a dress shirt armhole.

15. A method of manufacturing a smooth seam as defined in claim 1 wherein the application of heat and pressure of step (e) is accomplished by an ironing and pressing process.

16. A method of manufacturing a smooth seam as defined in claim 15 wherein the ironing and pressing process is carried out at a temperature up to 160 degrees celcius for 5 to 10 seconds.

17. A method of manufacturing a pucker free garment seam as set forth in claim 1 wherein:

in step (f), the second stitch traverses through the folded over portion of the first garment component, the bonding element, and the second garment component.

18. A method of manufacturing a smooth seam as defined in claim 1 and further comprising the step of:

sewing an additional set stitch along the seam such that the additional stitch traverses through the bonding element, the folded over portion of the second garment component, and the second garment component prior to the step of sewing the first and second components and the bonding element together by a second stitch running along the seam.

19. In a clothing garment, a pucker free seam comprising:

a bonding element having at least a thermal adhesive component and having an upper and lower surface;

a first garment component having an upper and lower surface, the first garment component being folded over the bonding element such that a portion of the upper surface of the first garment component is bonded to the lower surface of the bonding element and another portion of the upper surface of the first garment component is bonded to the upper surface of the bonding element;

a second garment component having an upper and lower surface positioned such that a portion of the upper surface of the second garment component abuts at least a portion of the lower surface of the first garment component along the seam;

a first set stitch running along a first side of the seam and traversing through the bonding element, the portion of the first garment component bonded to the lower surface of the bonding element, and the portion of the second garment component which abuts the lower surface of the first garment component;

a second stitch running along a second side of the seam and traversing at least through the folded over portion of the first garment component and the second garment component;

the bonding element of the seam being subjected to a sufficient amount of heat and pressure to cause the thermal adhesive to bond to at least the upper surface of the first garment component to provide a bond along the seam such that the bonded components will effectively reduce a tendency of the seam to pucker during laundering.

20. A smooth seam as defined in claim 19 wherein said bonding element is a thermal adhesive web composed entirely of a thermal adhesive.

21. A smooth seam as defined in claim 19 wherein said bonding element comprises an interlining having on upper and lower surfaces a quantity of thermal adhesive.

22. A smooth seam as defined in claim 21 wherein said interlining is a woven interlining fabricated from cotton.

23. A smooth seam as defined in claim 21 wherein said interlining is a woven interlining fabricated from polyester/cotton blend.

24. A smooth seam as defined in claim 21 wherein said interlining is a nonwoven interlining fabricated from a material selected from the group consisting of polyester, nylon, and viscose and blends thereof.

25. A smooth seam as defined in claim 19 wherein said adhesive is composed of a thermoplastic material.

26. A smooth seam as defined in claim 25 wherein said adhesive is composed of a thermoplastic material selected from the group consisting of polyamide, polyester, olefinic, polyurethane, and ethylene vinylacetate copolymer materials.

27. A smooth seam as defined in claim 19 wherein said adhesive has a melting point ranging from approximately 60 to 160 degrees celsius.

28. A smooth seam as defined in claim 19 wherein said first garment component comprises a front panel, yoke, and rear panel of a dress shirt and said second garment component comprises a shirt sleeve such that said seam is the seam of a shirt armhole.

29. A smooth seam as defined in claim 19 wherein said seam is the seam of a dress shirt armhole.