Hair-care composition and hair treatment process

• US 4,673,568 A
• Filed: 12/31/1984
• Issued: 06/16/1987
• Est. Priority Date: 04/13/1984
• Status: Expired due to Term

• Current Assignee: L'Oreal SA
• Original Assignee: L'Oreal SA
• Inventors: Dubief, Claude, Cauwet, Daniele, Grollier, Jean F.
• Primary Examiner(s): Ore, Dale R.
• Application Number:
  US06/687,968
• Time in Patent Office: 897 Days
• Field of Search: 424/70, 424/47, 424/71, 424/72, 514/880, 514/881
• US Class Current: 424/47
• CPC Class Codes: A61K 8/64 Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
• CPC Class Codes: A61K 8/65 Collagen; Gelatin; Keratin; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
• CPC Class Codes: A61K 8/898 containing nitrogen, e.g. amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone or dimethicone propyl PG-betaine
• CPC Class Codes: A61Q 5/02 Preparations for cleaning the hair
• CPC Class Codes: A61Q 5/06 Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
• CPC Class Codes: A61Q 5/12 Preparations containing hair conditioners

Abstract

Cosmetic composition for hair treatment and care containing at least one water-dispersible cationic surfactant, at least one water-soluble quaternized protein and at least one cationic silicone polymer.

This composition is a shampoo, a rinsed or non-rinsed lotion, a restructuring composition or a composition for blow-drying, or a composition for permanent-waving, which are in the form of dispersion, gel, or foam.

This composition confers advantageous cosmetic characteristics to hair in respect of disentangling, softness, shape-retention, liveliness and the absence of static electricity; it makes hair ends smoother and promotes quicker hair drying.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition for hair care comprising at least one water-dispersible cationic surfactant in proportions of from 0.05 to 7% by weight, at least one polypeptide carrying quaternary ammonium groups at the end of the chain or grafted on the chain in proportions of from 0.05 to 7% by weight, and at least one cationic silicone polymer in proportions from 0.05 to 7% by weight of the total weight of the composition, said one cationic silicone polymer being a product of the general formula:

##STR16## where x'"'"' and y'"'"' have average values such that the average molecular weight is from 5,000 and 10,000,

(ii) a compound of formula;

space="preserve" listing-type="equation">R'"'"'.sub.a G.sub.3-a Si--OSiG.sub.2).sub.n (OSiG.sub.b R'"'"'.sub.2-b).sub.m O-SiG.sub.3-a R'"'"'.sub.a

in which;

G is H, OH, C_1-8 alkyl or phenyl,

a is 0, 1, 2 or 3

b is 0 or 1

the sum (n+m) is from 1 to 2,000, where n is from 0 to 1,999, and m is from 2,000 to 1,

R'"'"' is a monovalent group of formula C_q H_2q L in which q is from 2 to 8, and,

L is

N R"--CH₂ --CH₂ --N(R")₂

N(R")₂

N.sup.⊕

(R")₃ A.sup.⊖

N.sup.⊕

(R")H₂ A.sup.⊖

or

NR"CH₂ --CH₂ --N.sup.⊕

R"H₂ A.sup.⊖

,

in which R" is H, phenyl, benzyl, or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon group of from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and,

A.sup.⊖

is Cl.sup.⊖

, Br.sup.⊖

, I.sup.⊖

or F.sup.⊖

,

(iii) a product of general formula;

##STR17## in which;

R₁₂ is a monovalent hydrocarbon group of from 1 to 18 carbon atoms,

R₁₃ is a C₁ -C₁₈ divalent hyrocarbon group,

Q^- is a halide ion,

r is a mean statistical value of from 2 to 20, and s is a mean statistical value of from 20 to 200.

2. A composition according to claim 1, in which the water-dispersible cationic surfactant is of formula (I):

##STR18## in which (1) R₁ is a product of general formula (II);

space="preserve" listing-type="equation">R.sub.5 --O--C.sub.2 H.sub.3 (R.sub.6)O].sub.p [C.sub.2 H.sub.3 (CH.sub.2 OH)O].sub.n-1 CH.sub.2 --CHOH--CH.sub.2 -- (II)

where R₅ is a straight- or branched-chain saturated or unsaturated aliphatic group of from 4 to 20 carbon atoms;

R₆ is

(i) an alkyl of from 4 to 20 carbon atoms,

(ii) a straight- or branched-chain alkoxymethyl group in which the alkoxy part is from 4 to 20 carbon atoms,

(iii)

a straight-chain alkenyloxy group in which the alkenyl part is from 4 to 20 carbon atoms;

p is from 1 to 2.5 and is a mean statistical value;

n is from 2 to 20 and is a mean statistical value;

R₂ is an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group of from 1 to 3 carbon atoms;

R₃ and R₄, which may be identical or different, are each an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group of from 1 to 3 carbon atoms or R₃ and R₄ form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a pyrrolidine, piperidine, morpholine or N-methylpiperazine heterocyclic ring;

X.sup.⊖

is an anion;

(2) R₂ and R₃ are each methyl, and

(i) R₁ and R₄ which may be identical or different are each a straight-chain saturated aliphatic group of from 12 to 22 carbon atoms or an aliphatic group derived from tallow fatty acids and containing from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, or

(ii) R₁ is a straight-chain saturated aliphatic group and R₄ is methyl or benzyl,

(III)

R₁ is an alkylamidopropyl radical, the alkyl part containing from 14 to 22 carbon atoms and R₄ is an alkylacetate group, the alkyl part of which contains 12 to 16 carbon atoms, and X.sup.⊖

is a halide or CH₃ SO₄.sup.⊖

anion;

(3)

R₁ is an alkylamidoethyl and/or alkenylamidoethyl group, where the alkyl and/or alkenyl group contains from 14 to 22 carbon atoms and is derived from tallow fatty acids, R₂ and R₃ together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached form a substituted heterocyclic ring of the 4,5-dihydroimidazole type, R₄ is a C₁ -C₄ alkyl, and,

X.sup.⊖

is CH₃ SO₄.sup.⊖

.

3. A composition according to claim 2, in which the water-dispersible cationic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of products of general formula (I), in which:

(a)

R₁ is

space="preserve" listing-type="equation">R.sub.5 --O--C.sub.2 H.sub.3 (R.sub.6)O].sub.p [C.sub.2 H.sub.3 (CH.sub.2 OH)].sub.n-1 CH.sub.2 --CHOH--CH.sub.2 -- (II)

where

R₅ is C₈ H₁₇ or C₁₀ H₂₁,

R₆ is C₁₄ H₂₉ or C₁₆ H₃₃,

p is 1,

n is from 2 to 5,

R₂ is methyl,

R₃ and R₄ together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached form a morpholino ring, and,

X.sup.⊖

is CH₃ SO₃.sup.⊖

or CH₃ SO₄.sup.⊖

;

(b)

R₁ is C₁₀ H₂₁ O--C₂ H₃ (C₁₄ H₂₉)O][C₂ H₃ (CH₂ OH)O]CH₂ CHOH--CH₂ --,

R₂ is methyl,

R₃ and R₄ together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached form a morpholino ring, and,

X.sup.⊖

is CH₃ SO₃.sup.⊖

;

(c)

R₁ is C₁₀ H₂₁ --O--[C₂ H₃ (C₁₄ H₂₉)O][C₂ H₃ (CH₂ OH)O]₄ CH₂ --CHOH--CH₂ --,

R₂ is methyl,

R₃ and R₄ together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached form a morpholino ring; and

,

X.sup.⊖

is CH₃ SO₃.sup.⊖

;

(d)

R₁ and R₄ which may be the same or different and each is a mixture of alkenyl and/or alkyl groups derived from tallow fatty acids and containing from 14 to 22 carbon atoms,

R₂ and R₃ are each methyl, and,

X.sup.⊖

is Cl.sup.⊖

;

(e)

R₁ is an alkylamidoethyl and/or alkenylamidoethyl group where the alkyl and/or alkenyl part contains from 14 to 22 carbon atoms and is derived from tallow fatty acids;

R₂ and R₃ form, with the N atom to which they are attached, a 2-alkyl (derived from tallow fatty acids)-4,5-dihydroimidazole ring;

R₄ is a lower alkyl group of from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and,

X.sup.⊖

is CH₃ SO₄.sup.⊖

, and

(f)

R₁ is a straight-chain saturated aliphatic group of 22 carbon atoms;

R₂, R₃ and R₄ are each methyl; and

,

X.sup.⊖

denotes Cl.sup.⊖

.

4. A composition according to claim 1,

in which the quaternised protein is a polypeptide carrying one or more quaternary ammonium groups at the end of the chain or grafted on the chain, which are selected from the group consisting of:

a collagen hydrolysate carrying one or more triethylammonium or trimethylammonium and trimethylstearylammonium groups,

an animal protein hydrolysate carrying one or more trimethylbenzylammonium groups,

a protein hydrolysate carrying, on the polypeptide chain, one or more quaternary ammonium groups each containing at least one alkyl group of from 1 to 18 carbon atoms,

a quaternary protein of formula;

##STR19## in which A is a protein residue derived from collagen protein hydrolysates, R₁₂ is a lipophilic group containing up to 30 carbon atoms, and R₁₃ is an alkylene group of from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

5. A composition according to claim 1,

in which the silicone polymer is

(i) a product of general formula:

##STR20## where x'"'"' and y'"'"' have average values such that the average molecular weight is from 5,000 and 10,000,

(ii) a compound of formula;

space="preserve" listing-type="equation">R'"'"'.sub.a G.sub.3-a Si--OSiG.sub.2).sub.n (OSiG.sub.b R'"'"'.sub.2-b).sub.m O--SiG.sub.3-a R'"'"'.sub.a

10 in which;

G is H, OH, C_1-8 alkyl or phenyl,

a is 0, 1, 2 or 3

b is 0 or 1

the sum (n+m) is from 1 to 2,000, where n is from 0 to 1,999, and m is from 2,000 to 1,

R'"'"' is a monovalent group of formula C_q H_2q L in which q is from 2 to 8, and,

L is

N R"--CH₂ --CH₂ --N(R")₂

N(R")₂

N.sup.⊖

(R")₃ A.sup.⊖

N.sup.⊖

(R")H₂ A.sup.⊖

, or,

NR"CH₂ --CH₂ --N.sup.⊖

R"H₂ A.sup.⊖

,

in which R" is H, phenyl, benzyl, or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon group of from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and,

A.sup.⊖

is Cl.sup.⊖

, Br.sup.⊖

, I.sup.⊖

or F.sup.⊖

,

(iii) a product of general formula;

##STR21## in which;

R₁₂ is a monovalent hydrocarbon group of from 1 to 18 carbon atoms,

R₁₃ is a C₁ -C₁₈ divalent hydrocarbon group,

Q^- is a halide ion,

r is a mean statistical value of from 2 to 20, and

s is a mean statistical value of from 20 to 200.

6. A composition according to claim 5 in which the silicone polymer is (ii) in which a is 0 and b is 1.

7. A composition according to claim 5,

in which the silicone polymer is of the general formula:

##STR22## where x'"'"' and y'"'"' are as defined in claim 5, is combined with a trimethylalkylammonium chloride of general formula;

##STR23## where R₁₁ is a mixture of alkenyl and/or alkyl groups of from 14 to 22 carbon atoms derived from tallow fatty acids,

and a polyethoxylated nonylphenol of formula;

space="preserve" listing-type="equation">C.sub.9 H.sub.19 --C.sub.6 H.sub.4 --(OC.sub.2 H.sub.4).sub.10 --OH.

8. A composition according to claim 4, in which the silicon polymer is the trimethylsilylamodimethicone of general formula:

##STR24## in which the sum (n+m) is from 1 to 2,000;

where n is from 0 to 1,999 and m is from 2,000 to 1.

9. A composition according to claim 8, in which the trimethylsilylamodimethicone is combined with octoxynol 40, with isolaureth-6 and with ethylene glycol.

10. A composition according to claim 4, in which the silicone polymer is a polymer which has a flashpoint of 60°

C., according to the ASTM Standard D-93, a viscosity of 11 centipoises at a concentration of 35% of active substance and at 25°

C., and a total basicity value of 0.24 milliequivalent per gramme.

11. A composition according to claim 1, which contains one or more water-dispersible cationic surfactants in a proportion of from 0.05 to 7% by weight, one or more water-soluble quaternised proteins in a proportion of from 0.05 to 7% by weight and one or more cationic silicone polymers, in a proportion of from 0.05 to 7% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

12. A composition according to claim 1, which is in the form of a shampoo, a rinsing product to be applied before or after a shampoo, before or after dyeing or bleaching, or before or after premanent-waving or hair-straightening;

a product for hair-setting setting or blow-drying, a restructuring composition, a product for permanent-waving or in a form that may be packaged as an aerosol.

13. A composition according to claim 1, which also contains one or more adjuvant which is an anionic, nonionic, amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactant, perfume, colorant, preserving agent, sequestering agent, thickener, emulsifier, softener, foam stabiliser, or propellant.

14. A composition according to claim 13, which is a shampoo containing anionic, nonionic, amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactant in an amount of from 3 to 50% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

15. A composition according to claim 14, in which the surfactant is present in an amount of from 3 to 20% by weight.

16. A composition according to claim 1, which is in the form of an aerosol and contains a propellant gas.

17. A hair treatment process, in which an effective amount of at least one composition according to claim 1 is applied to hair before the hair is shaped.

18. A hair treatment process, in which a suitable quantity of at least one composition according to claim 1 is applied to hair, and after a few minutes'"'"' application the hair is rinsed and dried.

19. A cosmetic composition for hair care comprising at least one water-dispersible cationic surfactant in proportions of from 0.1 to 3% by weight, at least one polypeptide carrying quaternary ammonium groups at the end of the chain or grafted on the chain in proportions of from 0.1 to 3% by weight and at least one cationic silicone polymer in proportions from 0.1 to 3% by weight of the total weight of the composition, said one cationic silicone polymer being a product of the general formula:

##STR25## where x'"'"' and y'"'"' have average values such that the average molecular weight is from 5,000 and 10,000,

(ii) a compound of formula;

space="preserve" listing-type="equation">R'"'"'.sub.a G.sub.3-a Si--OSiG.sub.2).sub.n (OSiG.sub.b R'"'"'.sub.2-b).sub.m O--SiG.sub.3-a R'"'"'.sub.a

in which;

G is H, OH, C_1-8 alkyl or phenyl,

a is 0, 1, 2 or 3

b is 0 or 1

the sum (n+m) is from 1 to 2,000, where n is from 0 to 1,999, and m is from 2,000 to 1,

R'"'"' is a monovalent group of formula C_q H_2q L in which q is from 2 to 8, and

L is

N R"--CH₂ --CH₂ --N(R")₂

N(R")₂

N.sup.⊕

(R")₃ A.sup.⊖

N.sup.⊕

(R")H₂ A.sup.⊖

or

NR"CH₂ --CH₂ --N.sup.⊕

R"H₂ A.sup.⊖

,

in which

R" is H, phenyl, benzyl, or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon group of from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and,

A.sup.⊖

is Cl.sup.⊖

, Br.sup.⊖

, I.sup.⊖

or F.sup.⊖

,

(iii) a product of general formula;

##STR26## in which;

R₁₂ is a monovalent hydrocarbon group of from 1 to 18 carbon atoms,

R₁₃ is a C₁ -C₁₈ divalent hydrocarbon group,

Q^- is a halide ion,

r is a mean statistical value of from 2 to 20, and

s is a mean statistical value of from 20 to 200.

20. The cosmetic composition of claim 19, said composition comprising

from 0.1 to 3% by weight of dimethyl dialkyl (C₁₄ -C₂₂) ammonium chloride, from 0.1 to 3% by weight of a quaternised protein having the formula:

##STR27## in which A denotes a protein residue derived from collagen protein hydrolysates, R₁₂ denotes a lipophilic group containing up to 30 carbon atoms, R₁₃ denotes an alkylene group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, of a molecular weight of from 1,500 to 10,000,

from 0.1 to 3% by weight of cationic emulsion which is a combination of a component of the formula;

##STR28## a component of the formula;

##STR29## where R₁₁ denotes a mixture of alkenyl and/or alkyl radicals containing from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, and,

a component of the formula C₉ H₁₉ --C₆ H₄ --(OC₂ H₄)₁₀ --OH.